Flood's Top 100 Restaurants in New York City
Neighborhood gems, humble lunch counters, and chef-driven restaurants — this is my take on NYC
For the fourth year running, The Times released its 100 Best Restaurants in New York list into the wild. It’s routinely the most talked-about, divisive, actionable piece in food media. No matter who’s composing the list or which restaurant lands on top, the release always seems to set off group chats and spark the same debate: what makes a restaurant “the best?”
You can love it or hate it, argue the criteria, or call the whole thing a sham. But I’ll say this: the restaurant scene is a hell of a lot more fun when we’re bantering about what’s actually good versus regurgitating information about what’s hot, new, or supposed to be good. Ranked lists shake up the conversation and force a level of discernment that is often sparse. While there’s no definitive answer to the question of “best,” there are certainly interesting perspectives. And perspective, personality, and taste will always entice me.
Since the earliest days of Flood’s, I’ve wanted to put together a list of my own: something ambitious, personal, and reflective of how I like to eat in New York. I’ve held off, though, because writing about New York in such a definitive, exhaustive way seems to imply you’ve done it all, and tried it all.
But I’ve come to realize: this list doesn’t need a completist approach to be valuable. Like New York itself — endless and ever-evolving — the project can be, too. What it does require is curiosity and a deep appreciation for restaurants and the culture surrounding them.
So I finally took a crack at it: 100 restaurants, one ranked list. Not a declaration of everything good, but rather a snapshot of the places that have mattered most to me during my five years in the city.
These are the places I’ve actually been to — and often return to. The restaurants I choose for occasions, the bowls of soup I crave in the dead of winter, the lunch counters I frequent during the most routine weeks. It’s New York through a practical, lived-in lens.
There’s no point system or rigid rubric. I trusted my gut and tried not to overthink it. I care about how a restaurant fits into my life and routine — its consistency, repeatability, and value. I appreciate warm hospitality, thoughtful details, and how a place makes me feel.
It might not be the 100 best restaurants in New York. But it most certainly is the Flood’s Top 100.
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[100] Yellow Rose
East Village
Never have I ever had a bad time eating queso fundido and drinking frozen prickly pear margaritas at Yellow Rose. An emergency bean-and-cheese taco to round out your order is non-negotiable.
[99] Super Taste
Lower East Side
I should probably broaden my Chinatown horizons and try somewhere new — but if it ain’t broke! Super Taste is an uncomplicated, unfussy outpost for dumplings and noodle soups. The peanut powder-dusted Sichuan-style dumplings will run you $6.50 for 10 — they absolutely rip.
[98] The Fly
Bed-Stuy
In a perfect world, everyone would have a rock-solid, unpretentious chicken spot in their neighborhood — a place like The Fly. I find tremendous satisfaction in settling into a pair of bar seats, ordering a whole chicken, Caesar salad, fries, and a couple of Modelos, and getting to work.
[97] Rucola
Boerum Hill
Rucola — perched on a cozy corner of Boerum Hill — is quietly better than it needs to be. The escarole salad — with heaps of Bulgarian feta and a zesty dressing — is a bowl of greens I often find myself craving.
[96] Szechuan Mountain House
East Village
At Mountain House, expect solid Szechuan with flashes of brilliance (ma po tofu, eggplant in garlic sauce). It’s not my top choice for a spicy outing, but it’s a dependable dining experience in a shockingly serene space on St. Mark’s.
[95] Emmett’s
Soho
Once a year — typically in the depths of winter — I get an intense hunger for an Emmett’s tavern pie. And I don’t ever ignore that signal. Emmett’s pie is crisp — almost crackery — and incredibly crushable.
[94] Hanoi House
East Village
I’ve had nothing but pleasant experiences at Hanoi House. The food is elevated, but still lands squarely in the approachable, platonic-ideal Vietnamese category. The house special pho — with filet mignon, brisket, oxtail, and bone marrow — is the tried-and-true order.
[93] Acre
Greenpoint
ACRE makes food that nourishes, without sacrificing flavor. Every component of the salmon bento box is thoughtfully prepared. If you’re grappling with a stubborn head cold, add a side of miso soup, and you’ll get over the hump in no time.
[92] Agi’s Counter
Crown Heights
Agi’s confit tuna melt (with Alpine cheddar, on grilled potato Pullman) is outstanding — the best tuna melt I can think of! Their palacsinta, or Hungarian crepes, are sweet, chewy, and delicious.
[91] La Rina Pastificio
Fort Greene
The memory of my transformative first experience at La Rina — sitting at the bar, eating their glorious lasagna bolognese — really sticks with me. It’s everything you want in a neighborhood Italian spot — comforting and reliable.
[90] Luigi’s Pizza
South Slope
Luigi’s is an institution, churning out classic New York pies. It’s not quite a destination-worthy pizzeria, but it’s a delightful community fixture. For the best results, keep it simple: cheese pie, fresh basil.
[89] Thisbowl
Multiple Locations
I’m a big fan of the Aussie slop-bowl micro-chain. It’s certainly the best in the category. Every component of the OG Bowl — sushi rice, crunchy veg, avocado smash, spiced scallion crunch, seaweed salad — is flavorful and adds a nice textural element. I get mine with miso salmon, but you can do whatever you want.
[88] Bar Bête
Carroll Gardens
Bar Bête is a neighborhood bistro that feels on the precipice of greatness. I want to love it, but there are just a few too many gaps in the experience for it to be elite. Still, there are excellent items here — the tuna toast and chicken liver parfait, to name a few.
[87] Kiki’s
Lower East Side
I won’t stand for any Kiki’s slander. It’s not just the overflowing meat platters, crunchy salads, and carafes of house red wine that keep me coming back. It’s how I feel being immersed in the electric vibe that Kiki’s always carries. Kiki’s is the restaurant in my back pocket — even on a Friday night in the heat of summer, a table of Greek food can be yours, if you’re willing to wait.
[86] Claud
East Village
Claud fills an interesting middle ground — finer dining than a routine weeknight dinner, but not so upscale that you’d choose it for an occasion. It’s just a nice restaurant. The pillows of chicken liver angolotti, in particular, are memorably delicious. And that decadent 7-layer dark chocolate cake is a banger.
[85] al Badawi
Brooklyn Heights
They do good, honest work at al Badawi. Nothing flashy, but with more quality and precision than you might expect. The kebab platter might be the best example of that work — flavorful, with a perfect char. Served with a zesty salad, garlic sauce, and a basket of freshly baked pita with za’atar and olive oil.
[84] Ops
Bushwick, East Village
Ops is up there with the best sit-down pizzerias in New York — timeless and dependable. It’s the place I always call on before any night out in Bushwick. Going in on chewy sourdough pies and uncomplicated cocktails in their dimly lit, brick-clad room sets you up for success.
[83] Babbo
Greenwich Village
There are a few things that never fail to get me excited: simple dishes executed well; warm, witty service; a good amaro list. Babbo 2.0 has all of those things. Plus, they still have the legendary beef cheek ravioli topped with chicken liver & black truffle butter — rich as hell, and as you might expect, quite delicious.
[82] Yemen Cafe
Cobble Hill
Yemen Cafe, sweet Yemen Cafe. I feel lucky to know and love this humble canteen. The frills may be non-existent (besides, of course, the self-serve jug of spiced Yemeni tea), but with a table full of lamb, frills are far from necessary to have an amazing time.
[81] I Sodi
West Village
I Sodi is a very good Italian restaurant. Their hearty Tuscan dishes — paccheri strascicati, and that damn lasagna a sugo — are stellar. But the service is curt, bordering on rude. And their move from the rustic, cozy room on Christopher Street to the newer space nullified much of the charm.
[80] Fish Cheeks
Noho, Williamsburg
Fish Cheeks doesn’t get enough love in the grand scheme of New York Thai food. The coconut crab curry, in particular, is a top-tier dish that really pops. It’s a little pricey, and the service can be inconsistent — but every once in a while, I dive in, and am reminded how good it can be.
[79] Lucia Pizza
Multiple Locations
One of, if not the best, classic New York slice shops in the city. If Lucia pre-dated Joe’s, I think we’d talk about it in a similar vein. It’s not fancy pizza, but it’s made with quality ingredients, and always reheated to a perfect crisp. And between locations, it always seems to be there — on the corner of Canal; perched on 22nd — exactly when I need it.
[78] Los Burritos Juárez
Fort Greene
Juarez is a leading force in the NYC burrito revolution. Their border-style burritos — lard-laden flour tortillas, rolled and griddled to order — are filled with flavorful stewed guisados. They’re chewy, but structurally sound, and so delicious. I implore you once again — don’t sleep on the bean and cheese.
[77] Frankie’s 457
Carroll Gardens
Frankie’s is a classic. A down-to-earth neighborhood spot that, in my eyes, can do no wrong. The cavatelli with sausage and sage is the one true must-order. Settle into a bar seat, bring a good book, and marvel at the windows fogging from the steam of boiling pasta water.
[76] A&A Bake & Doubles
Bed-Stuy
The Trinidadian counter-service spot is a straightforward banger. The front door of the modest storefront is all that stands between you and the pure delight of soft, flavorful chickpea-filled flatbreads. Shrimp doubles are my go-to — best doused with a little sweet sauce, a little spicy sauce.
[75] Don Udon
Crown Heights
There are no reservations at Don Udon — just 5 chairs parked out front for those waiting for space at the 20-seat restaurant. As the next person gets called in, you scooch down. It’s beautiful. The niku udon coming out of the minuscule kitchen is miraculous. Chewy noodles suspended in a translucent broth with thin, tender beef. Simple, but idyllic.
[74] Luthun
East Village
The globally-inspired tasting menu spot in the East Village is a peculiar place, but an impressive one. Chef Nahid Ahmed is eccentric in his approach to cooking — claiming “he’s never tasted any of the dishes he’s made.” When his creativity lands — for instance, in a Thai tartlet packed with eggplant, fresh papaya, and caramelized sambal — it makes for some of the most flavorful, interesting bites you’ll have in New York.
[73] Forma Pasta Factory
Fort Greene, Greenpoint
Forma’s $14 handmade pastas are a godsend. It plays for a weeknight meal, for a Sunday dinner, and for anything in between. The operation is efficient, the staff is kind, and the product is reliable — whether it’s the creamy pipette ragù, the hearty pappardelle bolognese, or any of the other five menu mainstays.
[72] Bernie’s
Greenpoint
It almost feels like cheating — carting out a menu of crowd-pleasers in a dimly lit, oak-wood and red-vinyl-clad room that feels like an early-2000s Pizza Hut got frisky with a suburban steakhouse. But complicated or simple, a restaurant still needs to execute — and Bernie’s does. I’ve never had a bad day that involves a Bud heavy in a frosty mug. And that chicken parm is something else.
[71] Ariari
East Village
I remember strutting through the East Village and being brought to a halt by the sleek facade of the Busan-inspired Korean restaurant. Their raw fish dishes, like the Scallop DIY Gimbap, are true bangers. Their more “popular” items, like the Dolsot Al-Bap (hot stone bimimbab), are less impressive.
[70] Di An Di
Greenpoint
Meal in and meal out, Di An Di makes me question all the bowls of noodle soup that came before it. Their phở thìn Hà Nội is special — my favorite bowl of pho in town. An order of crispy chả giò to pair is an excellent move.
[69] Little Miss Muffin & Her Stuffin’
Prospect Heights
If only you knew how unbelievably good it feels to go straight from a Villager cold brew into a curry chicken patty. If only you knew!! Flaky, buttery crust. Flavorful filling. Get a spicy beef patty while you’re at it. Long live Miss Muffin.
[68] Ba Xuyên
Sunset Park
In a humble, mildly chaotic storefront a block off Sunset Park, Ba Xuyên is making the best, classic bánh mì in New York. Sandwich #8, Bánh Mì Thịt Nướng, is the big winner. Caramelized grilled pork and silky pâté fill gently toasted bread. It’s sweet, smoky, and — crucially — perfectly ratioed with the fresh vegetables.
[67] Win Son Bakery
Williamsburg, East Village
In its heyday, Win Son Bakery was a mind-blowing operation. The BEC scallion pancake felt revolutionary. The chew of the mochi donut was unlike anything I’d had before. Snaking lines, and a few experiences with overly greasy dishes have brought it down a few pegs — but still, the Taiwanese breakfast lane is better with Win Son in it.
[66] S&P Lunch
Flatiron
It’s hard not to love what S&P is all about — a nostalgic New York lunch counter, gently restored and revamped, with a deep menu of tuned-up, crowd-pleasing diner classics. S&P is preserving a waning slice of NYC culture in a way that feels organic — not forcing a retro aesthetic, just keeping it alive.
[65] Khao Kang
Elmhurst
Step up to the counter and order with your eyes at Khao Kang. Take a good, hard look at the steaming trays of Thai hot bar entrees, and point to three that speak to you. Don’t worry about the flavors working together — they will. This approach led me to a combo of stir-fried peppercorn catfish, sweet glazed garlic pork, and a ladle of green curry. Three deeply flavorful dishes with lots of spice, served over rice, for $18.
[64] Ursula
Bed-Stuy
Ursula’s New Mexican-style breakfast burritos are a Sunday morning staple. My order depends on how banged up I am. Mildly: go full speed ahead with the red chile pork. Severely: keep it “simple” with green chile, egg, cheese, and hash brown. In either case, salsa verde will be applied liberally.
[63] Great N.Y. Noodletown
Chinatown
Despite the name, it’s all about pork at Noodletown. Specifically, “Roast Pork” from the “BARBECUED ITEMS” section of the menu. It’s the dish I keep coming back for. Juicy, caramelized, sweet & savory pork loin. Special stuff — don’t know how they do it.
[62] Birds of a Feather
Williamsburg
Birds of a Feather always delivers the exact kind of Sichuan spice I so often crave. The wontons in chili oil are a big winner. As are the crispy fried fish filets, which are numbingly spicy, with just a hint of sweetness breaking through.
[61] Raoul’s
Soho
Endearing and old-school in all the right ways — Raoul’s is an institution that hums in a way that few places in the city do. Their au poivre — draped over their burger, coating their steak — is what keeps people (myself included) so enamored.
[60] Ceremonia Bakeshop
Williamsburg
Ceremonia is churning out a god damn heifer of a burrito. Dense and delicious — packed with egg, potato, chorizo, and optionally, but-not-really-optionally, avocado. It draws lines for a reason — it’s the best breakfast burrito in town.
[59] Miss Ada
Fort Greene
I’ll never forget my first muhammara encounter — a cold winter day warmed by the roasty, punchy red pepper and walnut spread, drizzled liberally with olive oil, served with warm pita. Almost a decade in, Miss Ada remains among the best and busiest restaurants in Fort Greene. They do it through dependable Mediterranean dips and kebabs — and of course, the crispy skin za’atar salmon.
[58] PAOLINA
Williamsburg
The best (and only) thing on the menu at PAOLINA is the falafel pita. It’s $14. When you’re doing one thing and one thing only, you’d better have it dialed. And PAOLINA does. The falafel is perfectly crunchy yet airy. The vegetables are crisp, adding freshness and a bit of brine. The freshly baked pita is chewy, but sturdy. I don’t think you could draw up a better falafel sandwich.
[57] Ingas Bar
Brooklyn Heights
Ingas fits the casual, but dressed-up-just-enough, dining experience that I often want. Huddled around a table near the bar on a Thursday night is where I want to be, scheming weekend plans over a round of burgers and fries. I know there are a lot of coveted burgers in this town — Ingas’ dry-aged smash is the one I’ve had the most.
[56] Sukh
Fort Greene
Having a rock-solid neighborhood Thai spot is something I don’t take for granted. SUKH is my workhorse — always bustling and churning out orders at an incredible rate. On a rainy weeknight, I love carrying out an order of their somtum thai kai kem salad with a side of berry rice and grilled chicken. But from noodles to curries, you truly can’t mess up an order here.
[55] Angel Indian
Jackson Heights
On my first visit to Angel, I watched an order of sizzling lamb kebabs leave the pass and told my server I wanted those, too. It might be weird, even sacrilegious — but I dragged those kebabs through the rich orange butter chicken sauce before wrapping them in chewy garlicky naan. I haven’t been the same since that bite.
[54] Minetta Tavern
Greenwich Village
Minetta feels like a tapestry of the city, and a true mishmash of NYC characters, that doesn’t exist anywhere else. But no matter where everyone’s coming from, or where they’re going, you’ll all have one thing in common: a damn good burger will be in front of you. I do not say this lightly — the $38 black label burger is worth every penny.
[53] Salty Lunch Lady’s Little Luncheonette
Ridgewood
Salty Lunch Lady is making creative, perfectly crafted sandwiches (and desserts!) in a lovely corner storefront in Ridgewood. It’s hard not to order the menu mainstays, like The Chicky — a smashed chicken meatball, with charred onion and Bulgarian feta, on a seeded bun. But the funky specials are really what make this sandwich shop, well, special (they’re running an asparagus, stracciatella sandwich right now).
[52] Bridges
Chinatown
Bridges is a restaurant that can’t be explained in one succinct sentence, nor pinned to a singular genre. The food is creative and intricate. The design is sleek, sexy, and one-of-one. It’s a restaurant that challenges itself on both concept and execution — swinging for the fences, sometimes going yard (duck with XO sauce), other times missing (smoked uni dumplings), but pushing the boundaries nonetheless.
[51] Rolo’s
Ridgewood
Wood-fire cooking and in-house butchery are the main draws of the lauded neighborhood restaurant. And those two elements are apparent in the taste and texture of every menu item. There are certainly some big winners — the chewy polenta bread, the fire-blistered two-sheet lasagna, the way-too-limited-quantity burger. You’d be lucky to have a place like Rolo’s as your locale.
[50] Raku
Multiple Locations
Diving headfirst into a cauldron of spicy tan tan udon is one of life’s most profound joys. There isn’t a more comforting, nourishing bowl of soup in town. This is not a light, refreshing noodle soup — it’s a deep-orange, sesame-oil-dotted bowl packed with toothsome noodles and spicy miso pork. It’s the most dependable, nourishing dish to be had in New York.
[49] Cafe Spaghetti
Carroll Gardens
I still can’t get myself to say “let’s go to Cafe Spaghetti” with a straight face. But other than the silly name, everything about this homestyle-yet-inventive, Italian-American restaurant is stellar. Anchor your order around nicely cooked pastas — the best of which is the creamy crab rigatoni — and you’ll have a lovely time.
[48] Fradei
Fort Greene
Fradei is charming as hell, with just 15 seats in its intimate, slightly subterranean dining room. The hospitality is warm as can be — the owner, Clement, touches every table and masterfully controls the energy. When Fradei’s food works, it really works. Few places execute crudos, carpaccios, and salads this well.
[47] F&F
Carroll Gardens
F&F is my go-to delivery pie, and a slice shop I prioritize stopping by every time I’m in the neighborhood. The slender slices have the perfect crunch, and most importantly, are well-seasoned and flavorful from tip to crust.
[46] Casa Adela
East Village
They’re miracle workers at Casa Adela. Miraculous pollo asado. Miraculous pernil. If you see me striding down 5th St toward Ave C, there is a high, high probability I’m headed to Adela. The legendary Puerto Rican spot serves comforting food in a setting that feels like an extension of a family home. Everyone who comes through the door is taken care of — no one is leaving hungry.
[45] Don Angie
West Village
Besides the challenge of getting a table, there’s absolutely no way you could be a Don Angie hater. From the parmesan-blanketed chrysanthemum salad to the black cocoa tiramisu, every item on Don Angie’s menu excels. I was feeling starstruck when the iconic lasagna spirals landed on my table, but honestly, they ended up being the least impressive part of an otherwise exceptionally good meal.
[44] Kisa
Lower East Side
There isn’t much to be decided upon at Kisa. Just one choice, four options — beef, pork, veg, or my runaway favorite, stir-fried squid. While the menu might be tight, the variety of bites you can concoct with the plethora of banchan and accoutrements is not.
[43] Lucali
Carroll Gardens
Across a half dozen visits, the thrill of Lucali hasn’t faded. I still get fired up when the host leads me to my cozy, candle-lit table, and I still feel a rush when the crackery-thin pizza and cheese-oozing calzone are placed in front of me. Grab a 6-pack of Peronis at the bodega next door, and bask in the vibe at the Carroll Gardens pizza institution.
[42] Thai Diner
Nolita
I’m a Thai Diner fan — the concept is unique, the vibe feels immersive, and the standout dishes, like Khao Pat Puu, Khao Soi, and the Baan Salad, really pop. I wish I lived a little closer so I could stop in for a more casual breakfast or lunch play, and get real diner utility out of the Thai… diner.
[41] Sofreh
Prospect Heights
On tree-lined Bergen Street, there’s a white-walled, wood-beamed Brooklyn townhouse that’s home to some of the best Persian food in New York, and a vibe that feels quintessentially BK. Bright, refreshing salads, creamy dips, beautifully charred vegetables, and hearty meats — like the fork-tender braised lamb shank — are served in abundance.
[40] Lilia
Williamsburg
Regardless of whether you’re team Misi or Lilia, it’s hard to argue that both of Missy Robbins’ restaurants are stellar. Lilia’s emphasis on meat and seafood is where it shines — calabrian chile-coated clams, a fire-grilled, dry-aged ribeye. The iconic Italian Job, vanilla gelato drizzled with honey and fennel pollen, is as good as advertised.
[39] Court Street Grocers
Multiple Locations
Nine times out of ten, when I’m thinking about excellent sandwiches, a Court Street Grocers creation comes to mind. Maybe it’s the Italian combo. Could be the Turkey Delight. Might even be the Tunaberry. Nobody understands the alchemy of the sandwich — excellent bread, perfect ratio, adequate lubrication — quite like these masterminds.
[38] Mariscos El Submarino
Multiple Locations
I’m fully onboard El Submarino — I’ll ride wherever the casual, high-energy Mexican seafood spot is headed. Spicy food, drinks that go down easy, plenty of outdoor space. I wouldn’t have a meal here without diving into a molcajete full of aguachile verde. The fish and octopus-packed bowl is refreshing, acidic, and downright invigorating.
[37] St. Anselm
Williamsburg
St. Anselm is the complete opposite of what we’re taught to expect of a steakhouse. Rustic, almost medieval-feeling, with bare-wood tables and chairs. A come-as-you-are atmosphere, with laid-back service to match. And prices that work for a weeknight, or any night, not just an occasion. The tender and delicious butcher’s cut will run you $36, and even though it’s the cheapest steak on the menu, it’s the best move.
[36] The Four Horsemen
Williamsburg
The Four Horsemen deserves plenty of praise for pioneering the type of restaurant it is: a European-feeling, wine-forward restaurant with innovative cooking. While I’ve always been a little put off by the too-cool-to-care service, it’s easy to look past when the mastery of small plates, salads, and crudos is this prevalent.
[35] Bong
Crown Heights
I think Bong has the potential to become an elite New York City restaurant. Novel concept, buzzing energy, punchy dishes. The neon green-glowing restaurant is quirky, interesting, and very real. The cross-hatched, whole-fried dorade is a true showstopper — crispy, flaky, and delicious fish served with a pile of herbs and pungent sauces that allow you to craft a wicked bite.
[34] L’Artusi
West Village
L’Artusi has been humming for so long that it’s kinda easy to forget. Every time I go, I leave with a top dish that was different than the visit before. The pastas are certainly the main draw, but the hanger steak with impossibly crisp potatoes is an underrated play. The olive oil cake, with crème fraîche mousse and golden raisin marmellata, is wildly delicious.
[33] Bistrot Ha
Lower East Side
At Bistrot Ha, there will be flavor and texture combinations you’ve almost certainly never had before — like pork and shrimp wrapped in fried yuba, doused in a sweet, tangy nước mắm sauce. Sadie’s dessert program truly might be the best in town — the peanut on peanut parfait is outrageously good.
[32] AbuQir
Astoria
There’s nothing revolutionary going on, culinarily, at AbuQir. And that’s the whole point. Egyptian-style seafood is the name of the game — fresh selections pulled straight off the ice chest into the kitchen, cooked nicely, and plated simply. Innovation has its time and place, but here, there’s beauty in restraint.
[31] Da Toscano
Midtown
My experiences at Da Toscano — the simple, comforting Italian restaurant on Minetta Lane — were always top class. The octopus carpaccio, the rich stuffed pastas, the attentive-but-not-oppressive service. I have no doubt the same excellent cooking will persist after their Midtown move — but the lived-in quality of the Greenwich Village space cannot be understated.
[30] Cafe Kestrel
Red Hook
Whimsical and wonderful, Kestrel feels like a vortex to an alternate universe. The food is provincial yet precise, comforting, and interesting. The convivial nature of the petite restaurant, whether you’re seated at the bar or cozied into a corner 2-top, is magical. Dinner here — flanked by roast chicken in a date, caper, lemon sauce (with a side of creamy, peppery mac and cheese) — is always a treat.
[29] Hart’s
Bed-Stuy
Hart’s is exactly how I’d draw up a perfect, timeless neighborhood restaurant. Beyond the slate-blue facade is an oddly shaped, but remarkably cozy and endearing, 30-seat dining room that’s always full and roaring. The ever-changing, hyper-seasonal menu composed of simple yet brilliant dishes never disappoints.
[28] Penny
East Village
I had some initial skepticism about the sleek seafood counter, but after my visit last fall, I quickly changed my tune. The portions are certainly dainty, and the experience is pricey — but they’ll serve you the most mind-bendingly plump shrimp cocktail of your life. The petite bowl of buttery confit oysters is way more than meets the eye. Penny is nothing short of seafood excellence, and somewhere I’d choose for something celebratory.
[27] Saga
Financial District
60-some stories up in the sky is certainly the highest elevation I’ve had a meal in New York. Back in 2021, I had the chance to dine at Saga with the late James Kent still at the helm. I was expecting a parade of delicate fine-dining bites, but then Saga’s main event emerged — a whole platter of masterfully cooked duck, served with a myriad of accoutrements to build your own (very fancy) tacos. It’s the single best large-format course I’ve had in the city.
[26] Apollo Bagels
Multiple Locations
There’s something to be said about a bagel shop opening up in New York — a city with plenty of purveyors — and immediately becoming the only bagel I want to eat. Apollo’s crispy, fluffy sourdough bagels are something else. A crunchy-yet-airy sesame bagel with juicy tomato, tangy scallion cream cheese, and a drizzle of velvety olive oil is my go-to.
[25] Chez Ma Tante
Greenpoint
I’m embarrassed to admit how often I find myself thinking about Chez Ma Tante’s pancakes. They command way more real estate in my head than any single dish should. But the fluffy, cakey, syrupy beauties with crisp, clarified butter fried edges, really do it for me. I’ve only ever had brunch here — because of these pancakes — and probably only will.
[24] Via Carota
West Village
The simply prepared, perfectly cooked vegetables and pastas at Via Carota are certainly impressive — but the most enchanting part of the West Village osteria is how transportive it is. A meal here moves at an unhurried pace, and the offer of another round of drinks feels like an invitation to settle in and stay a little longer in your sturdy wooden chair.
[23] Cafe Mado
Prospect Heights
Mado isn’t exactly the easy breezy all-day cafe it set out to be — but no matter the format or formality, the cooking is exceptional, and the hospitality is second to none. While I miss the days of leisurely sipping a cold brew and having a breakfast sandwich in their back courtyard, I do love the feeling of being looked after throughout a proper brunch service.
[22] Kafana
East Village
When I think about Kafana, three things come to mind: charred meats, live Balkan music, and genuine warmth. That is one hell of a trio — and a combination you won’t find anywhere else in NYC. After dozens of visits, my order is officially dialed: zeljanica (spinach pie), a crunchy šopska salad, and ćevapi. There isn’t a casual restaurant in the city that feels as special as the humble East Village taverna.
[21] Le Veau d’Or
Upper East Side
I’ve been having flashbacks to the brilliance and decadence of the entrees at Le Veau d’Or. Poulet à l’Estragon, a half chicken with shatteringly crisp skin, doused in a tarragon butter sauce, was a revelation. Duck magret aux cerises has become their signature dish — perhaps because the cherry sauce matches the color scheme of the 15-table bistro, but more likely because it’s supremely delicious.
[20] Red Hook Tavern
Red Hook
Every time the topic of conversation drifts into favorite burgers, without thinking, without hesitation, Red Hook Tavern rolls off my tongue. The thick, dry-aged patty, with melty cheese, a slab of raw onion, and a perfectly buttered sesame bun — really is all that. They do serve more than a burger — a hefty wedge salad, hearty pastas — but it’s why I go, and why I’ll be back.
[19] Chrissy’s Pizza
Greenpoint
I was given clear instructions that my first slice of Chrissy’s needed to be consumed as soon as it came out of the oven, with the pizza box balanced on the basket of the Citi Bike station directly outside the Greenpoint shop. I followed those directions carefully and reaped the rewards. It’s a magnificent pie — thin, crisp, and shimmering in an olive oily glaze.
[18] 4 Charles Prime Rib
West Village
4 Charles is a perplexing case — a unanimous hit amongst the public, and yet never shown an ounce of love from the critics. Cost and accessibility aside, I find no faults in the rich and delicious West Village steakhouse. I could feel my heart palpitating on the way home — prime rib, ribeye, bone marrow, and chocolate pie coursing through my system — but there are few places better for a deeply indulgent, blowout meal.
[17] Cho Dang Gol
Koreatown
There are few guarantees in life; one of them is that Cho Dang Gol is currently on a wait. That wait — always painstaking — has been well worth it, every time. The bustling homestyle Korean restaurant is so easy to love, and impossible to hate. Banchan are plentiful. A heaping scoop of rice is served to you, tableside. The gojujang-coated seafood rice cakes are my personal must-order, but the tofu kimchi stew will always be on my table, as well.
[16] Lucky Charlie
Bushwick
Two pies between three hungry lads turned out to be the right number at Lucky Charlie. The crunchy, chewy, haphazardly cut, crushable pizza goes down easy at the Bushwick coal oven pizzeria. The crust is unbelievable — crisp as hell, flat from edge to edge, and beautifully charred, right on the edge of burnt. I truly can’t wait to slide back into a bar seat and do it again.
[15] Place des Fêtes
Clinton Hill
Place des Fêtes is the best of its kind — a wine bar with top-class hospitality, high-quality cooking, and an atmosphere that makes me feel like I’m exactly where I should be. I’ve never been poured a glass of wine or been made a cocktail that I didn’t enjoy. The food is always excellent, especially the simple pastas, and perfect preparations of meat and fish. It’s a dialed operation, but with enough casualness that makes it a genuinely fun place to eat.
[14] Radio Bakery
Greenpoint, Prospect Heights
Everything they touch, everything they bake at Radio Bakery seems to turn to gold. When asked about my favorite items, my off-the-cuff answer changes every time. The focaccia blows me away every time I bite into a pillowy-but-crisp slice. The sandwiches are sensational — especially the tuna with pickled pepperoncini on a sesame baguette. But it’s all good. All of it. And yeah, it’s worth standing in line for. For as long as you think it’s worth standing in line to eat at the best bakery in town.
[13] Rosella
East Village
Rosella still feels like a sleeper. It’s such a refreshingly interesting restaurant — unique nigiri, sushi, and raw-fish dishes, at a high-energy counter. I always have a blast here — but I certainly have the most fun when I let the servers take control of the ordering and get swept away by the experience. Make sure they bring you the ceviche, though — the tender, fatty tuna sitting in an aromatic, creamy coconut milk broth is the best thing on the menu.
[12] Bánh Anh Em
East Village
There’s been a lot of talk about Bánh Anh Em’s (giant) bánh mìs lately, which, don’t get me wrong, really are fantastic. But the rare Vietnamese specialities — like Bánh Bèo and Bánh Cuốn Hà Nội — are the real reason to celebrate this walk-in-only operation.
[11] Le French Diner
Lower East Side
Part of the reason I’ve only explored a few of the city’s French bistros is that Le French Diner has everything I want in a restaurant. The comically snug 15-seat French bistro is the most transportive restaurant in New York. My order has never deviated from green salad, octopus, and steak & potatoes au gratin — and it never will.
[10] Sailor
Fort Greene
A destination-worthy, neighborhood restaurant — I have been a Sailor fan since the first time I strutted past their striped blue awning. There isn’t a place that feels so enjoyable across hours and services. Their brunch is brilliant — custardy French toast, a perfect Caesar, and Turkish eggs. Dinner feels special — a golden roast chicken serves as a focal point, supported by a parade of salads and vegetables. Even a casual walk-in for a burger at the bar can be the highlight of your entire week.
[09] L’industrie
Multiple Locations
I’ll never forget that sunny summer day — biking across the Williamsburg Bridge, queuing up on S 2nd St, and then taking that glorious first bite of a crisp-but-creamy-and-cool burrata slice. That slice changed me (for the better). A visceral experience. To this day, L’industrie’s pizza is still the best I’ve ever had.
[08] Soothr
East Village, LIC
There isn’t a restaurant in New York I’ve been to as many times as Soothr. It’s an operation that’s humming like no other — a machine that cannot be thrown off kilter. Flavorful Thai dishes come at you hard and fast, with barely enough time to process. A khao soi, beef pad see ew, and a few singhas later, you’ll emerge from the whirlwind saying, “holy shit, when can we do that again?”
[07] Ha’s Snack Bar
Lower East Side
Ha’s Dac Biet’s transition from a pandemonium-inducing pop-up to two full-scale restaurants has been amazing to witness. Despite struggling to ever get back in, I have nothing but fond feelings for the 20-seat snack bar on Broome Street. Ha’s is a place where the more unfamiliar and incomprehensible a menu item sounds, the better it’ll be. Case in point: an oxtail and escargot vol-au-vent.
[06] Misi
Williamsburg
I can almost feel the warmth of the golden hour light flooding into Misi. And I can almost taste the spinach-and-mascarpone-stuffed tortelli, swimming in brown butter, blanketed by ricotta salata. The pasta-forward experience at Misi leaves a lasting impression through its precision and simplicity. Nothing about the restaurant feels overdone, but all of it feels so well considered.
[05] Yemenat
Bay Ridge
At the risk of sounding dramatic, late lunch at Yemenat is the best meal I’ve had in New York in a long time. It was a soul-warming experience — a table so full of food that you almost felt stifled to choose your next bite. There’s bubbling clay pots of beef fahsa, foil-wrapped muva fish painted in red pepper sauce, the best lamb haneeth I’ve come across in all my days, and of course, a heaping stack of Yemenat’s clay oven-baked rashoosh bread.
[04] Cervo’s
Lower East Side
I’ll never get tired of Cervo’s — tight, buzzing, well-designed, timeless. The Lower East Side seafood restaurant checks all the boxes for me. The cooking is simple and proficient, and the cocktails are stellar. While seafood is undeniably the star — garlicky prawns a la plancha, spicy mussels eschabeche — a meal here is at its best with a piri piri chicken and fries in the mix. Cervo’s is poised to become an institution; some already consider it one.
[03] Taqueria Ramirez
Greenpoint
Ramirez is serving the undisputed best tacos in town. Hell, despite trip after trip to Mexico City, the tacos at Ramirez remain my absolute favorite in the world. Order at the counter, doctor up your plate with red onion, cilantro, and salsas (go easy on the rojo), and dive into tacos that are better than you could have dreamt up. I’m grateful to be living in a world where Ramirez is shaving al pastor and blow-torching tripa to order.
[02] Torrisi
Nolita
All signs point toward Torrisi being an obnoxious, overpriced scene. But in practice, it’s an immaculate dining experience. The food is so dialed in — flavorful, but never bogged down or excessively rich. The soaring ceilings make the operation feel grand. The service is tight, professional, but not performative. Linguine in a pink Manhattan clam sauce might be the best pasta dish in New York. Everything about Torrisi is over-the-top — in the best ways possible.
[01] Eyval
Bushwick
Eyval is my top dog — and it has been for quite a while. The modern Persian restaurant executes precise, substantial dishes at an incredibly high level. What I love most is how unpretentious the experience is — it’s a restaurant anyone can appreciate. Eyval is the restaurant I take every visitor from out of town. It’s a place I like to take my parents. We’ve celebrated my friend Tom’s birthday here twice. Come with a crew and order as much as possible — eggplant, lamb ribs, citrus date cabbage salad (the best salad in New York).
Eyval makes you want to spread the good word to everyone you know. There is nowhere I’d rather eat in New York City.
Anywhere I missed? Drop me a note, I’ll see you in the comments.
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this is incredible
This is momentous, you guys. Incredible list.