Soothr
Pork salad was really nice
Living in New York, there’s this constant, looming fear of being street interviewed. Imagine striding down 1st Ave, Zeppelin’s “Misty Mountain Hop” thumping on the AirPods. Then BANG, you’re accosted by someone wielding a camera and tiny microphone, blindsiding you with a question; a question about anything. That’s the intent of these interviews – to catch people a little off-guard. To acquire raw footage and gut reactions. And then they plaster the video across various social media platforms. It’s not really fair to the unsuspecting pedestrian. But it’s the digital age we live in.
This was about as good as a street interview could have gone for me, especially since it was, in fact, my first rodeo. The line of questioning was almost too good to be true. Post-production did me a serious solid by including the first dude mispronouncing the restaurant and following it up with an inaudible sound when asked about his favorite dish. I came out looking like a big-brained, charismatic king (humble too).
Soothr, properly pronounced “Sood,” serves Thai food right up the street. To this day, it’s my favorite place to eat in the East Village.
There are plenty of reasons to love Soothr, very few to hate. The spirit in the room is high. The food is phenomenal. The value is great. But at the end of the day, Soothr being my favorite place to eat in the East Village comes down to one simple thing – it makes me feel great. No matter what mood or energy I bring to Soothr, I walk out in a better state of being.
Soothr sits on 13th St, just east of 3rd Ave, right on the edge of the East Village. I don’t think there’s a better block in the city for the restaurant to exist. It’s a few blocks from the chaos of Union Square, outside the grunge of Tompkins – situated amidst the hustle of New York, but perched on a pleasant, residential stretch that is essentially an energetic blank canvas. Soothr dictates the aura that surrounds the restaurant, and they set the vibe high. You’ll feel the hum of Soothr well before you step inside.
As you check in at the sidewalk host stand, which sits in front of a colorful, Bangkok-inspired facade, you’ll be surrounded by patrons excitedly diving into steaming bowls of Khao Soi, and a congregation of bystanders eagerly awaiting their seating. Once escorted inside, the buzz and stimulation are dialed up to 10 as you shimmy through the dining room and settle into your table. It’s a fast-paced, exciting environment – walking into Soothr will spike your heart rate and hit you with a boost of serotonin.
First things first: drinks. Although people seem to love the cocktails here – all named after colorful gemstones – I am not really a fan. I tried a few across my first several visits and they were all leaning too sweet for my taste. Nowadays, I keep it simple with a Singha, a clean and crisp Thai beer that pairs perfectly with a bit of spice.
The food at Soothr is, technically speaking, broadly Thai – there’s no specific regional focus for the restaurant. But unlike the suburban, takeout-centric, Pad Thai-slinging restaurants I grew up on, the menu at Soothr is a collection of regional specialties and generational family recipes that come together to create a tapestry of Thailand’s food scene.
The struggle I often encounter here is pushing myself to try new things in the presence of so many certified hits. But when I do branch out and dive into the unfamiliar, it never disappoints. This only complicates the ordering process for future visits as the list of winners piles up. I can’t imagine how challenging it’ll be sitting down at Soothr having tried everything on the very deep menu with seemingly no misses.
Yum Nuer, which sits in the small bites section, is a frequent order. It’s a braised beef salad of sorts – loaded with aromatic kefir lime leaf, chili, and lemongrass. It’s bright and acidic in all the right ways. Spicy, and umami-loaded. You’ll find this to be a theme, most dishes at Soothr cover a lot of ground, flavor-wise.
Jeeb Dumplings are another big winner, an undeniably delicious and crowd-pleasing appetizer, although not revolutionary by any means. The chewy steamed dumplings are filled with ground pork, shrimp, water chestnut, cilantro, and scallion – best dunked in the spicy soy vinaigrette served alongside. Yum Kaw Moo, grilled pork salad tossed in fragrant Thai herbs, and Moo Dang Puff, fried pastry packed with roast pork, and caramelized onions, are both welcome additions to get things in motion.
The aforementioned Khao Soi, which you’ll see on most tables, is the one dish I’d consider a must-try. Creamy, Northern-style coconut curry, chewy egg noodles, juicy chicken with crispy skin. An added bit of texture from the crispy noodle topping that slowly softens in the broth. Crunchy pickled radishes round things out. It’s a dish I crave. Supremely comforting, nourishing, and mood-lifting.
I’ve gone for two new dishes recently – one new to me, and one new to the menu – and both are major hits. Prik Khing Moo Noom – stir-fried pork, and long beans in a hot chili herb paste – is beautifully charred and perfectly spicy. Panang Duck Lychee Curry is a new menu addition – caramelized duck breast in spicy Panang curry sauce, topped with a bit of sweet coconut cream and thinly sliced kaffir lime. Brilliant dish, a special curry.
Call me basic, but I really get down with Pad See Ew. I think it’s the quintessential carryout Thai dish (miles better than Pad Thai, don’t @ me). Soothr has the best Pad See Ew I’ve ever encountered. Tender beef, chewy pan-fried noodles, sweet black bean sauce, and charred gailan. God, it’s glorious. I feel guilty ordering something so straightforward with so many great, complex dishes on the menu, but excellence in simplicity is a powerful force.
Soothr’s most well-known dish is Koong Karee, sautéed shrimp in an ultra-rich, silky egg curry sauce. I’m a contrarian when it comes to this one. It’s good, but far from one of my favorites. It’s decadent and lands a bit heavy. It’s not a dish I return to unless I’m dining with someone who feels strongly about ordering. I wouldn’t call it a miss, but I also wouldn’t tell you it’s a must-order.
Ok, a quick tangent. One of the few knocks I have on Soothr is their Michelin star cosplay, which is frankly a bit out of hand. Their affiliation with the tire company is proudly and prominently posted at streetside, on the wall of the main dining room, and even on their website. And I get it! Michelin stars are a high honor that restaurants don’t achieve by accident. My problem with Soothr’s decor is that they don’t have a Michelin star or even a Bib Gourmand (although, they should have this value-based designation). They are recognized and listed on the Michelin guide, along with *checks notes* 267 other New York City restaurants. I can’t help but feel it’s intentionally deceptive. And it’s working. The amount of chatter I hear about Soothr being a “Michelin-starred Thai restaurant” in New York is crazy. It’s not, and it shouldn’t be. It’s stellar, but it’s not buttoned-up or polished like a Michelin star spot, and I don’t want it to be. Does any of this matter? No. But it comes off as “pick-me” – trying too hard to be something it’s not. Soothr is busy all the time. It’s an overwhelming success – star or not – so why bother faking it?
The other common knock, which doesn’t bother me but is impossible not to notice, is the highly systematic, down-to-a-science approach to Soothr’s operation. Soothr is dialed the fuck in. It’s like a Swiss watch, ticking swiftly and smoothly. They are a restaurant with a prerogative of turning tables, and from the moment you sit down you’re undoubtedly on a timer – 90 minutes. The service is prompt, bordering pushy. There’s no time to linger, and indecisiveness is generally not well-received. This might sound unpleasant, maybe even like bad hospitality, but hear me out. Once you order, food starts landing within minutes. Servers are flying around, always there if you need anything. And the kitchen operation is nothing short of immaculate. A dish will never land cold. Your order will never be incorrect. They have optimized and streamlined their entire experience – and as a customer, it’s not gonna be leisurely, but it will be without flaws. The other benefit of this hustle and almost robotic approach to service is that tables are not impossible to come by. They do so many covers here that it’s a shockingly easy res.
Finishing with Mango Sticky Rice is a tremendous move, I highly recommend it. The sweet, chewy rice is served with mango compote, a drizzle of sweet coconut cream, and creamy homemade mango gelato. I promise it won’t let you down.
Dining at Soothr is one of the best experiences you can get yourself into in New York, I stand by it. It plays well in nearly every situation, but especially well with a group of 3 or 4, expanding the order and alleviating some of the tough decisions. It’s a place I turn to when I’m looking for high-energy dining, but not quite a scene. It’s reliable, dependable, and unbelievably consistent – a restaurant I can roll out with confidence, knowing it’ll be a resounding hit with any crowd. But don’t just take it from me – listen to that guy from the street interview on TikTok. He sounds like he knows what he’s talking about.
This was a restaurant write-up from Mr. Flood’s Party. Subscribe for free and get Flood’s delivered every week.
Wow I haven't been to Soothr in a minute! I remember really enjoying their pork blood noodle soup (Nam-Tok Moo) but it looks like they've got a lot of new stuff on the menu. Time for a revisit 😎