Red Hook Tavern
I feel like you're just here for the burger
Unrelenting heat radiating off the concrete, a subway platform that reaches temperatures similar to those in a handcrafted Finnish sauna, multiple-shirt-change-per-day inducing humidity — peak summer days in New York City can get a bit gnarly. Escaping the sweltering streets, even if just for a brief moment, is a borderline necessity. Despite these grim, sweaty scenes, there actually are a few prevailing reasons to stick around New York during the summer months.
Taking the 7 train to Flushing for the U.S Open is one of them – watching Jannik Sinner dominate and collecting Honey Deuce cups is an objectively good time. Laying on a giant blanket and drinking effervescent natural wines in Fort Greene Park makes the list too. But the best reason, in my opinion, is spending a breezy late summer day in Red Hook, Brooklyn — perhaps the most underrated joy of living in New York City.
Red Hook is a charming neighborhood with an easy-going spirit that feels more like a seaside town than a part of the big city. It’s a neighborhood that does leisure very very well — bar-hopping, indulgent food, wearing shorts in public. It’s also home to a few rather scarce NYC experiences: (good) barbeque, tart key lime pie, and live bluegrass music.
It’s just hard enough to get to — a rare subway desert, best accessed by bike or ferry. But when framed as a day trip, the burden of getting to Red Hook feels more like the summertime escape we all desire.
There’s no shortage of excellent spots to hit in Red Hook (though a round at Sunny’s feels close to obligatory). But if you surveyed the crowd traversing Van Brunt St on any given Saturday, the overwhelming reason for a visit to Red Hook is to eat a cheeseburger. Now, this might sound a touch ridiculous (and it is) — traveling via ferry to eat… a burger. But miraculously, the pilgrimage to Red Hook Tavern is a worthy one.
Red Hook Tavern is aptly named. A comfortable, vibrant corner restaurant with a straightforward American menu. Woody interior, dimly lit. Tastefully branded and designed to feel like it’s been around forever, even though it opened its doors in 2019. The light pouring in from the front windows creates a sort of glow and haze that transports you even further out of New York City, into a buzzing western saloon.
Taverns, as a concept, are great. Come-as-you-are kinda places where you’re greeted with a warm smile. Where the draught list is long, the liquor is cheap, and the food is just good enough. I’m talking places like Brady’s in Beverly Hills, MI – unfussy, blue-collar establishments with a little something for everybody.
Red Hook Tavern is certainly a refined take on the tavern. The welcome is warm, but you’d be unlikely to be on a first-name basis with your server. Despite the zhuzhed-up persona, it does maintain the tavern-like approachability and easy-goingness. In the grand scheme of New York City dining, Red Hook Tavern leans casual. Yes, beers start at $9 and a cocktail will run you $17. But rest assured: The food is better than just good enough.
Plus, when you add the fact that everyone here is going in on a burger, it keeps the energy quite light. That’s the beauty of the burger. It’s disarming. A place can only be so serious if everyone has their hands wrapped around buns.
The burger itself is quite serious, though. Thick, dry-aged meat — peppery, beautifully crusted, very juicy, little funk. Melted American draping over the sides. Substantial slice of raw white onion. On a pillowy sesame bun with a buttery sheen. It’s a memorably good steakhouse-style burger. A smash could never. It’s served with “frites,” more commonly known as “cottage fries” — an unremarkable, but inoffensive accompaniment.
Eating this thing is an experience – an endeavor. It’s not a burger meant for a first date — maybe fourth or fifth (at the earliest). The juices will be running, the linen napkin will be cashed. You might break into a light sweat. It’ll put a temporary pause on any ongoing conversations at the table – it requires your undivided attention.
Everything else on the menu ranges from solid to good, though rarely great. That’s the honest truth. A round of oysters and shrimp cocktail plays quite well on a hot day. Salad on the table never hurt anybody. But in a sad hypothetical world where Red Hook Tavern isn’t serving their burger, this destination-worthy hit becomes an afterthought in the New York dining scene.
Honestly, I don’t mind a restaurant carried by a single item, especially when they lean into it like Red Hook Tavern does. If you attempted to put in an order without the burger, the server would likely steer you straight. I respect that. Ordering the burger isn’t the basic or trendy choice – it’s the right one.
And truthfully, there is always room for a few one-trick ponies in the repertoire for the days you don’t want to make decisions. For the moments when you want one specific item and nothing else will do.
This pony’s trick is serving quite possibly the best cheeseburger in New York City.
This was a restaurant write-up from Mr. Flood’s Party. Subscribe for free and get Flood’s delivered every week.
Sunny's might be the best bar in NYC... also you have to get the prawns next time you go to Red Hook Tavern