Margin Notes: The 2025 James Beard Award Semifinalists
Color commentary on the "Oscars of food"
Special one today — off-the-cuff “margin notes” on the recently announced James Beard Award Semifinalists. Hopefully entertaining, perhaps insightful. Next week I have a restaurant write-up from an excellent field trip to Bay Ridge, Brooklyn coming at ya.
Margin Notes: The 2025 James Beard Award Semifinalists
The James Beard Awards have always felt more relevant and actionable to me as a traveler, consumer, reader, and writer than the Michelin Guide. It’s partially due to geography — The James Beard Awards are a fully domestic selection that pulls from cities and towns that Michelin doesn’t. But also because of the criteria — Michelin looks for quality, mastery, and consistency while James Beard takes a broader, less stringent approach to identifying excellence. I love that a place like Saffron de Twah with a truly badass $15 Moroccan fried chicken sandwich can get a JB nomination. Cities like Philly, Seattle, Boston, and Detroit have restaurant scenes that deserve national attention — James Beard provides a stage.
It’s no shade to fine dining, tasting menus, or the restaurants on the Michelin Guide — plenty of the places I’ve written about have stars or bib gourmand status, and some JB nominees even overlap with Michelin. But as a resource, I find James Beard to be a more useful read-through for new restaurant discovery, validation of existing bookmarks, and illumination of industry trends.
Within the award process, this stage — the semifinals — is where I find the most value as an observer. It’s the widest net of nominations across many cities and genres. At the end of the day, what ends up winning these awards doesn’t matter. But like it or not, the nominations do. Ryan Sutton shared a similar sentiment in his piece on the JBAs last year:
“Regardless of what cooking reality competitions teach us, restaurants and journalism aren’t sports where there are true winners, verified by home runs, goals, missed penalties by the refs, or touchdowns. This isn’t the Super Bowl, where the losers apologize on television for letting their fans down after retreating to their locker room for a period of soul-searching (I’ve never understood that, but I guess that’s why I’m not a professional quarterback).”
I’m sure the inner workings of the nomination process are gnarly — probably politically influenced, maybe even financially driven. But the reality is, there’s a concise list of names that emerges each year, and we’re all going to open it and read. Like any list, you need to take it with a grain of flaky salt.
I ran through this year’s semifinalists and jotted down notes. My two cents on places I’ve been, trends I’m noticing, and a little bit (but not too much) of “this should have made it.” It’s one guy's opinion — impartial, far from comprehensive (there are a lot of nominees I didn’t touch on). The intent is to take an already valuable resource and add a little color.
I welcome any thoughts in the comments — whether it be on the New York-based restaurants, places I didn’t highlight, or the awards in general. Go on, dive in.
FULL LIST OF SEMIFINALISTS
note: linked restaurants indicate places I’ve been
Outstanding Restaurateur
Benjamin Goldberg, Max Goldberg, and Josh Habiger, Strategic Hospitality (Bastion, Locust, Kisser, and others), Nashville, TN
I’m headed to Nashville in a couple of weeks, and these spots (along with Rolf and Daughters) have come highly recommended — specifically Locust. Will report back.
Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr, Frenchette, Le Veau d'Or, and Le Rock, New York, NY
Frenchette was the Best New Restaurant winner in 2019. Hanson and Nasr went for a glitzy, art deco expansion with Le Rock in 2022. And now they’ve tastefully restored a historic French bistro, Le Veau d’Or, which rounds out their portfolio nicely. Le Veau d’Or is one of the hottest tables in town right now — a place I’ve heard is very worthy for a special occasion.
Brian Jupiter and Aaron Torricelli, Pioneer Tavern Group (Frontier and Ina Mae Tavern), Chicago, IL
Ina Mae is a perfectly okay NOLA-style restaurant. Haven’t heard of their other spot, Frontier. They own Lottie’s Pub too, which was a hilarious place to get drunk at 22. Sort of a weird inclusion.
Simon Kim, Gracious Hospitality Management (COTE, Undercote, and COQODAQ), New York, NY
This is a classic case of “I get it” but I’m not “about it.” Something about Miami expansions bugs me — feels like bag chasing. Not a fan of all-caps restaurant names either. I’ll eventually give COTE a go, but I sorta just know these spots aren’t for me.
Sara Stayer and Martin Stayer, Nobie's, Toasted Coconut, and Nonno's, Houston, TX
Nobie’s, from what I hear, is the pride and joy restaurant of Houston, TX. Seems like a worthy nod down south.
Notes: The restaurateur award is a tricky one to assess because you don’t really know what’s going on behind the scenes. It’s based on community, creativity, and integrity — not food. I think Redwood Hospitality (PdF, Cafe Mado, Oxalis) belongs in the mix. Happy Cooking (Sailor, Jeffrey’s Grocery, Joseph Leonard, Fairfax) would fit in as well.
Outstanding Chef
Tavel Bristol-Joseph, Canje, Austin, TX
Canje hits — I had a great meal there in 2022 just before their Esquire feature. Excellent Caribbean food, and an incredibly welcoming environment. Tavel came out from the kitchen to say hello and check in — seemed like a wonderful guy. I’ll be rooting.
Gilberto Cetina, Holbox, Los Angeles, CA
Saw Alex Delany eating here via IG and bookmarked hard. This is secondary validation. Holbox looks awesome — haven’t seen seafood done quite like it.
Gabriel Kreuther, Gabriel Kreuther, New York, NY
Outside my pay grade.
Lee Wolen, Boka, Chicago, IL
Already a legend at this point. Boka feels more corporate than ever which makes this strange timing for a nod, but hard to argue.
Jungsik Yim, Jungsik, New York, NY
Just got the three-star bump from the tire company, so this makes sense.
Outstanding Restaurant
Chubby Fish, Charleston, SC
Chubby Fish is already towards the top of my want-to-try list, all cities considered. Seems like a must-hit if you find yourself in SC. Walk-in-only.
Don Angie, New York, NY
Credit where it’s due, Don Angie is a damn good restaurant and has stayed damn good for going on 7 years. It’s a hard place to hate, even though the highly photogenic lasagna is kinda overrated.
The Four Horsemen, Brooklyn, NY
We’re coming up on 10 years of The Four Horsemen in Williamsburg, which still feels as captivating as ever. It’s well-deserved recognition. They should probably win this category, tbh.
Galit, Chicago, IL
If not Four Horsemen, I’d give it here. Galit is my favorite restaurant in Chicago. I remember excitedly peeking through the windows in the days before they opened in 2019. It’s been excellent since day 1. The fine-dining snobs love to rag on Galit’s “Michelin-worthiness,” but at the end of the day, it’s a badass restaurant. Bubbe’s brisket hummus is out-of-bounds delicious. And the cuminy-orange glazed carrots!
Oberlin, Providence, RI
My parents went here in like 2018 and still rave about it, specifically their crudo program lol. But actually, we always try to make raw fish like Oberlin around the holidays — with arbequina olive oil, and lemon. One of those perpetually bookmarked spots because I haven’t found myself in Providence.
Selden Standard, Detroit, MI
Back-to-back nomination years for Selden Standard. They just hit their 10-year. When they opened in 2014 it was a big deal. It marked the unofficial start of a restaurant renaissance in Detroit proper, I think. Selden has stood the test of time. Dependably very very good.
Spoon and Stable, Minneapolis, MN
I did a solo dinner at the bar here in 2016 as a little intern in Minneapolis. Shit blew my mind (and my per diem).
Notes: I love this category because it captures timeless restaurants that still feel fresh 5+ years in. It’s not about what’s hot, it’s about sustained excellence. I think you could easily swap Misi or Lilia in for Don Angie here — both of which continue to be snubbed by major awards, despite Missy Robbins individually getting love. Torrisi feels like it’s primed to be included in the conversation in the next couple of years. Maybe even Cervo’s (although that might be a touch informal). Mabel Gray could swap for Selden — checks all the same boxes. Giant in Chicago feels like it should be in the conversation at some point too.
Emerging Chef
Danny Garcia, Time & Tide, New York, NY
Pretty rock solid story here: Top Chef winner, mentee of the late Jamal James Kent, stepping into the spotlight at T&T. Just feels like a storyline that wins an “emerging chef” award. Still not sold on that giant goldfish though.
Daniel Garwood, Acru, New York, NY
This guy has a wild background — grew up in Tasmania, won a few Best Young Chef awards, worked at Kadeau in Copenhagen and Evett in Seoul, and most recently was sous at ATOMIX. His first restaurant, Acru, opened like 2 months ago.
Phila Lorn, Mawn, Philadelphia, PA
I’ve heard quite literally nothing but praise for Mawn and their Cambodian noodles. Will be checking it out on my next Philly day trip. Phila’s parents came to Philadelphia as refugees in 1985 after surviving the war in Cambodia. They named their son after the city. C’mon.
Jacob Potashnick, Feld, Chicago, IL
Contrary to the feel-good story above, I’ve heard Feld is wack. And $195 for the tasting menu. The chef became mildly famous on TikTok for his “journey to opening a restaurant” and then subsequently infamous on Reddit for being kind of a chotch.
Best New Restaurant
Alma Fonda Fina, Denver, CO
Couldn’t get a table here when I was in Denver last fall — it was booked up hard. I have a strong, inexplicable feeling this place is special. I’ll be prioritizing it next time I’m in the mountains. Start the Modern Mexican counter, this is 1.
Atoma, Seattle, WA
Reid from Bad Larry’s friend runs this place. Reid says he’s impressed. Therefore, I am impressed.
Café Carmellini, New York, NY
Opulence to this degree makes me nauseous.
Corima, New York, NY
Corima seems to be getting extremely mixed public reviews, but universal critical acclaim, including what many considered a “surprise” Michelin star. That’s usually a recipe for a place that I find to be more thought-provoking than good. Make it 2 on the Modern Mexican counter.
Kisa, New York, NY
I’m gonna go to Kisa, don’t worry. Like very very soon. right on Franklin sold me a while back. I just need a crew of 4 so we can try everything. $32pp in this economy??
Penny, New York, NY
Penny on the other hand... I’m honestly fine without. I thought Claud was good-not-great, and a little pretentious. This feels like their attempt at being more laid back, with a “walk-in” seafood counter. But is it? It’s just pricey ass seafood. And everyone’s like “Oh my god the bread is so good!!” The bread? You’re paying $185 for a platter of seafood and we’re talking about… the bread??
Vecino, Detroit, MI
Make it 3 on the Modern Mexican counter. Based on what I’ve heard from friends, this feels like a reach.
Notes: Where’s Sailor in the mix? That seems like the most glaring omission to me — likely a consequence of the updated Code of Ethics which essentially eliminates anyone with an ounce of public controversy. Cafe Kestrel and Cafe Mado both deserved a look as well. Have to imagine Ha’s Snack Bar and Sunn’s will be prime candidates next year.
Outstanding Bakery
Fan Fan Doughnuts, Brooklyn, NY
I haven’t had a good doughnut in so long. I’m gonna take a long walk over here next weekend.
Machine Shop, Philadelphia, PA
Mom and Dad stopped in here LAST WEEK as they were passing through Philly. They said it’s good, but not as good as Radio.
Secret Bakery, Ferndale, MI
I recently learned that crazy bakery hype is not a phenomenon unique to NYC — it’s nationwide. Over Christmas in Detroit, I lined up for Forest Bakery. Less than a mile away, Secret Bakery gets a JB nom. Wild. I hadn’t heard of this place until today.
Notes: Speaking of Radio — although you won’t find me lobbying for it, I am a bit surprised it’s not on here.
Outstanding Hospitality
Baobab Fare, Detroit, MI
I’ve driven by here many times on my way to Supino. Will give it a try next time I’m home. They’ve gotten nominations like 3 years running, so something must be up.
Melba's, New York, NY
The first time I heard about Melba’s was last year’s James Beard Outstanding Hospitality nominees. The second time I heard about Melba’s was when my friend Maverick told me it’s the best chicken and waffles he’s had in New York (to which I replied, “How many chicken and waffles have you had in New York?”).
Notes: This category, historically, has made no sense to me. I do not know the angle they’re going for or the criteria. They use the word hospitality in the description: “Fosters a sense of hospitality.”
Outstanding Wine and Other Beverages Program
Hawksmoor, New York, NY
The only steakhouse I’ve been to in New York is St. Anselm. And 4 Charles, if you consider that a steakhouse. I think Hawksmoor would probably be next up — for like a work dinner or something. The soaring room in a non-Midtown neighborhood appeals to me. I respect they do a $10 corkage special on Mondays — points for approachability.
Spencer, Ann Arbor, MI
Spencer is the shit. Great little spot. Was out of budget while I was in school — I was on that $3 Sadako avocado roll grind. But it’s so cool they’ve made it on the national stage. Especially considering Michigan has such a tightly controlled liquor and wine commission which severely limits options to serve.
Outstanding Bar
Leyenda, Brooklyn, NY
Not too far from me, but haven’t been. The food menu is pretty substantial, which makes this a slightly confusing nomination for the bar category.
Notes: Barely Disfigured is right next door to Leyenda — really stellar, and way more of a “bar.” I love Fresh Kills, they’d be a worthy nomination. Also, I know it’s just beer, but Gold Star definitely belongs in the conversation. In Chicago, Queen Mary Tavern is the definition of outstanding.
Best New Bar
Bar Contra, New York, NY
I have no complaints about BC, but I also don’t have much in the way of praise. I found it to be a pretty underwhelming experience, just a little flat and lethargic — even though the frozen aquavit cocktail was pretty good.
Sip & Guzzle, New York, NY
It seems like what S&G is doing is on another level. It’s showy, it’s expensive — it’s an experience. I haven’t been, but I should and I will.
Notes: Mr. Melo might have been a stretch, but I really do love it there. Clemente Bar is raging hot right now — feels like a lock for next year’s nominations. Chicago’s Cara Cara Club should have been on this list.
Outstanding Professional in Beverage Service
Arjav Ezekiel, Birdie's, Austin, TX
I’m a Birdie’s fan. Stellar food, and friendly service (although the service model is bizarre). Arjav is in charge of all things wine — he’s incredibly personable and explains wine in an exciting, unpretentious way. He also has one hell of a backstory. The wine list at Birdie’s is super well-curated, but damn it’s expensive!! The glasses of red wine ranged from $19-24 when I recently visited. In Austin!!
Best Chef: Great Lakes (IL, IN, MI, OH)
Marcos Ascencio, Mariscos San Pedro, Chicago, IL
Haven’t been, but it’s on my Chicago shortlist. Looks vibrant, easy-going, and very tasty.
Javier Bardauil, Barda, Detroit, MI
Barda is one of my favorite rooms anywhere, so so cool inside (although rip Magnet). I found the food ranged from forgettable to pretty good. Curious about his more casual concept Puma, though.
Diana Davila, Mi Tocaya Antojería, Chicago, IL
More modern Mexican! None of my Chicago friends had heard about this place when I mentioned it. I’d probably prioritize Mariscos San Pedro.
Joe Frillman, Daisies, Chicago, IL
Back-to-back nominations. Last year they gave the award to Hajime Sato at Sozai who’s doing sustainable sushi in Metro Detroit. Could see it going to Joe this time around for similar reasons — Daisies has a Michelin Green Star. The guy makes tasty pasta, that’s for sure.
Ji Hye Kim, Miss Kim, Ann Arbor, MI
Three years in a row! I respect what Ji Hye is doing, but truthfully, if Miss Kim was an independent restaurant, it would be an afterthought. It’s in the Zingerman’s restaurant group, which carries serious weight around Michigan.
John Yelinek, Ladder 4 Wine Bar, Detroit, MI
See my thoughts on Ladder 4 here:
Best Chef: New York State
Fariyal Abdullahi, Hav & Mar, New York, NY
Nasim Alikhani, Sofreh, Brooklyn, NY
Ayo Balogun, Dept of Culture, Brooklyn, NY
Giovanni Cervantes, Carnitas Ramirez, New York, NY
Chris Cipollone, Francie, Brooklyn, NY
Suzanne Cupps, Lola's, New York, NY
Clare de Boer, Stissing House, Pine Plains, NY
Aretah Ettarh, Gramercy Tavern, New York, NY
Ryan Fernandez, Southern Junction, Buffalo, NY
Markus Glocker, Koloman, New York, NY
Efrén Hernández, Casa Susanna, Leeds, NY
Eiji Ichimura, Ichimura, New York, NY
Brian Kim, Oiji Mi, New York, NY
Hooni Kim, Meju, Queens, NY
Atsushi Kono, Kono, New York, NY
Vijay Kumar, Semma, New York, NY
Shaina Loew-Banayan, Café Mutton, Hudson, NY
Kwame Onwuachi, Tatiana, New York, NY
Hillary Sterling, Ci Siamo, New York, NY
Emily Yuen, Lingo, Brooklyn, NY
Notes: Long ass list. I don’t even know how you go about this, because to assess the chef you need to assess the restaurant, right? Giovanni Cervantes getting a nod is really badass — the man works out of a 50 sq ft kitchen slinging tacos. Suzanne Cups is getting a lot of media love, but Lola’s, for whatever reason has little appeal to me. Clare de Boer’s Stissing House might be the most captivating project on this list — would make a serious statement to award this upstate. I feel like Kwame Onwuachi is all set on awards — dude has it all. Plus he opened a restaurant in D.C. this year and I believe that should DQ you for a 2025 NY award. Nasim and Atsushi were both finalists last year, and neither’s trajectory has really changed. I know Nasim is the OG when it comes to NYC Persian, but Ali Saboor (Eyval) absolutely belongs on this list too.
Commentary, criticism, and expertise are more than welcome. Drop a comment — let me know what you think!
1. A flex of how many US cities you have visited
2. Penny bread slander is not tolerated !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
3. What if you just went to Kisa and ate for four.....
Tavel is a mentor of mine is one of the most deserving chefs I could think of. As a FOH manager of one of his restaurants he made time for me weekly to talk about leadership and how to mentor other people and grow our community.