Flood's On Draft [06]
The Q70 bus will take you to the promised land
Match Point Pt. 1
Positioned prominently on my coffee table is a big marble bowl filled to the brim with matchbooks – my favorite restaurant keepsake. When I’m entering or exiting a space, I’m always on the lookout for a stack by the host stand.
Matchbooks are incredibly meaningful to me. Not for utility, but for memory's sake. They represent stories, people, and places – good, bad, and indifferent. Matchbooks are a physical manifestation of something inherently non-tangible and fleeting – a restaurant experience. Even more so than my photos of dishes, or words on hospitality, matches can place me in a specific moment in time, and often remind me of distinct feelings.
The reality of restaurants is that they come and go – even the most celebrated cultural institutions. But in my pile of matches, the spirit and character of these restaurants can live on indefinitely. That’s fucking beautiful.
I was sitting on the couch today with my morning coffee and found myself sifting through the mismatch of boxes – different shapes, sizes, and designs. I wanted to share a few of my favorites, along with quick stories and memories. This will be the first edition of what’ll be a recurring series within On Draft.
Place des Fêtes Clinton Hill, Brooklyn
About a year ago, I had a brief couch-surfing stint while on the hunt for my next apartment. My friend Sam took me in with open arms for (more than) a few of those nights. He’ll tell you that’s what friends are for, but I couldn’t help but feel indebted. As a bit of a thank you, and also because I was eager to try, we cozied into a dinner at Place des Fêtes on a chilly October night. Amid so much uncertainty about what the next chapter would look like for me, that meal at PdF felt like a needed break from forward-thinking, allowing me to simply enjoy the present moment. It was a phenomenal experience, and the hospitality was incredibly warm. A few days later I’d sign a lease right down the street in Fort Greene.
Giulio Passami L'olio Roma, Italy
After a long day of travel, my family and I were settled into our hotel and ready to venture out for our first dinner in Italy. Jet lagged and a little weary, we were without a reservation, and facing an uphill battle given the day of the week – a quiet Sunday night. My brother pulled Giulio out of his hat – we didn’t ask where, we didn’t ask how; we just rolled with it. As we entered the rustic, 30-seat trattoria, we weren’t sure what to expect. But when the pasta started landing – a near-perfect Armiticiana, rigatoni loaded with asparagus and crisp guanciale, a comforting Gricia – all doubts and worries were out the window. The service was erratic but personable and endearing – par for the course in The Eternal City. Giulio ended up being one of our favorite, most memorable meals of the trip.
Recently Added
The newest additions to the Flood’s hit list
Cafe Kestrel Red Hook, Brooklyn
I’ve been on a bit of a surprising Red Hook kick – surprising in the sense that I previously wrote about this hard-to-get-to neighborhood as a highlight of peak summer. The days have shortened, the temperatures have slid, but I’ve still found myself drawn to Red Hook’s quaint charm. There’s hardly a buzz on these chilly fall evenings, even on a Friday night, but the quiet can be comforting – especially when it involves a snug dinner like this.
Cafe Kestrel opened this past summer and has been met with overwhelmingly positive reviews from people and publications I generally align with. Commentary from the masses has been mixed, often citing the long journey and the unworthiness of a special expedition. This combination of criticism, I find, is my sweet spot for really liking a place. Kestrel carries an aura of mystery – stepping inside is like being welcomed into a dinner party at an old country home. The setting is surreal – intimate, quirky, and charming. There are 6 tables separated by mere inches, along with 4 counter seats. The food is hard to place in a genre – not quite European, not quite small plates – but certainly refined and still rustic. Fried Halloumi dusted in berbere, sitting in a puddle of honey — a delight. Seared scallops in brown butter, with a quenelle of creamy potatoes alongside. Roast chicken in a sweet date sauce, balanced with capers and lemon, topped with carrots & herbs. A side of mac & cheese is a surprising must. What might have been most impressive about Kes was the high-functioning, enchanting hospitality in this tiny room. It’s an experience that simultaneously feels strung together, but carefully orchestrated. I can’t wait to return.
Khao Kang Elmhurst, Queens
Standing outside the terminal at LGA, staring at a $90 and 90-minute Uber ride home, I started to feel moderately unwell. My pivot was via the Q70 airport shuttle bus, which dropped me and my duffel bag off at the Jackson Heights subway stop. Rather than making an immediate transfer, I wandered 3 blocks down the road to Khao Kang, a Thai restaurant that’s been stuck in my head since its feature in an Action Bronson video a while back. The cash-only lunch counter is light on frills, heavy on sustenance. You’ll choose from a selection of hot bar entrees, served over rice – a plate will run you $15. I opted for stir-fried peppercorn catfish, sweet glazed garlic pork, and a ladle of green curry. It’s a powerful spread: deeply flavorful dishes that play well together, lots of spice. I walked out feeling supremely nourished and restored to full health. It's a very worthy side quest if you find yourself in airport transit hell.
Best Dishes
Some of the best things I ate (or drank) recently
Linguine in a Pink Manhattan Clam Sauce — Torrisi Nolita, New York
Exuberance and maximalism are on full display at Torrisi, and this dish is no exception. Linguine in a Pink Manhattan Clam Sauce is a lavish plate of pasta – one of the best I’ve had, maybe ever. You’ll feel the silkiness of this dish just by twirling the pasta with a fork. There’s tenderness and just enough bite to the linguine, an important textual component to such a creamy dish. The pink sauce is glossy and tangy. Plump clams deliver a slight briny punch. Pockets of Calabrian chile add welcome spice that kicks but doesn’t linger. Fresh parsley is layered throughout, contributing a touch of pepperiness. It’s a truly masterful pasta – the most impressive part of a flawless meal.
Egg Sandwich — Hot Soup & Bad Larry’s Sandwiches Lower East Side, New York
There’s some magic happening at 22 Orchard St. A duo of popup chefs are currently holding down a residency at the long-time home of Scarr’s Pizza. They’re putting their skill sets together to create imaginative soup and sandwich combos featuring freshly baked bread and seasonal produce. If you swing by early enough, you might just get your hands on this somewhat off-menu soufflé egg sandwich. It comes out swinging with a thick slab of MSG-cured pork belly and a healthy smear of chipotle mayo. It’s assembled on crisp, airy ‘Pala alla Romana’ bread. It’s a badass breakfast sandwich.
Flood’s Hi-Fi
Artists and records for moving and grooving
Tycho — Live at Brooklyn Steel (show)
I’ve been a fan of Tycho’s music since the release of Awake, which just hit its 10th anniversary. It’s one of my favorite records – an iconic instrumental album I turn to often. Tycho’s ambient/electronic/rock sound has always been so sonically comforting to me – rooted in nature, the atmospheric layers come together softly, and cohesively to form a true sensory experience. I finally got a chance to catch the live show this week at Brooklyn Steel, and it took my appreciation to another level. Performing as a 4-piece band, each of Tycho’s instrumental components shines. The swirling, rhythmic, guitar-driven melodies facilitate a cathartic release. Enhanced by acid-washed visuals, colors, and lights, it’s a special performance. Peaceful at times, rocking at others, contemplative throughout.
Get the full Flood’s Hi-Fi playlist, updated regularly on Spotify
Up Next
Places on my radar
Daphne’s Bed-Stuy, Brooklyn — Impressive-looking new-wave pasta dishes, in what looks like a beautifully designed room.
Taikun Sushi Lower East Side, New York — For the next omakase hit. Per Hannah’s guidance.
Mesón Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn — A somewhat mysterious, 30-seat Basque restaurant with a focus on Spanish natural wines.