Flood's On Draft [03]
Have you ever seen someone unhappy eating aguachile? Me either
I’m in love with a cafe that doesn’t love me back
I have finally come to terms with the cold, hard truth. The feeling isn’t mutual.
I’ve visited hundreds of times, spent countless hours and so many dollars. I’ve written letters of adoration – dedicated posts, and special features alike. I’ve captured the morning light pouring through their paneled front windows, and the evening glow against the wood-clad bar. I purchased their limited-run ceramic mug over the holidays and named my home wifi network after them (seriously). The list goes on – I’ve poured my heart into an East Village cafe called Abraço.
I didn’t do any of this to be noticed or recognized, it wasn’t for clout. I did it because I genuinely love this cafe so damn much. Abraço is a place that inspires me every time I walk through the door. I feel incredible when I’m sitting in their space – drinking shockingly strong cold brew, savoring every bite of olive oil cake, and listening to rare Afro-Caribbean jazz play over the speakers. It’s been an impactful part of my experience living in New York City.
Abraço doesn’t love me back, though — at least not in the way we conventionally think about hospitality.
The reality is I could stop coming into Abraço and no one would notice. No one working there knows my name (although Benny, the most senior barista, tends to nod and say hello). They treat me like it's my first time, every time. I am one of thousands of regulars at this neighborhood institution. And I am not nearly one of the most important ones.
But just because Abraço doesn’t show me love directly, doesn’t mean there’s an absence of love in the building. Abraço runs their business by unapologetically being themselves. They do things their way , which means non-dairy milk isn’t offered, and laptops are never allowed. If you don’t like it, they’ll let you take your business elsewhere. It’s contrarian, refreshingly so. This stubbornness creates an unexpectedly special environment – a place where everyone feels comfortable to do the same, to bring their most authentic self. Abraço shows love by holding space – for caffeination, for leisure, and for genuine human interaction. It doesn’t matter how old you are, how you’re dressed, who you know. All that matters is that you’re a decent person.
I’ve had some incredible encounters because of the space Abraço holds. The morning before I took off for a two-month sojourn across Europe last summer, the uncertainty and ambiguity had me feeling a touch anxious. I shimmied into the corner seat at the long, communal picnic table and shortly after struck up a conversation with an older woman who appeared to be studying backgammon maneuvers. We ended up stumbling into a conversation about her solo adventures in San Sebastian nearly 30 years back – dancing under the moonlight, eating pintxos, and drinking too much wine (2 weeks later, I was doing just the same). Every interaction I’ve had with strangers at Abraço has felt serendipitous, like something out of a movie. These encounters could never happen between the sterile walls of a Blank Street Coffee.
I’d venture to say that I’m not the only one who loves Abraço. And while there are a favored few cafe-goers (and former Bon Appétit personalities) who get a bit of that love directly in return, I’ve come to realize that experiencing and participating in the exchange of energy that happens at Abraço is arguably an even higher form of love.
Recently Added
The newest additions to the Flood’s hit list
LaRina Fort Greene, Brooklyn
Every year when summer turns to fall, my desire to cozy up in a great neighborhood restaurant quickly ramps up. A great neighborhood restaurant, to me, is a comfortable, accessible place where the hospitality is warm, and the food is approachable. It’s an equal partnership – the neighborhood influences the feeling and formality of the restaurant, and conversely, the restaurant helps define the character of the neighborhood.
In Fort Greene, LaRina is a perfect example. It’s an excellent Italian restaurant that lands somewhere in between old world and modern. It’s casual, dimly lit but not too moody, and full of charm. You’ll catch the servers chattering in Italian, likely a few customers too. Opened in 2016, it’s a staple in the neighborhood – a definitively great place for handmade pasta, and a restaurant you don’t need to bend over backwards to get into. The menu leans innovative, but it does so by reimagining classics rather than through new creations. The result is unpretentious dishes, thoughtfully elevated, delivered with so much care. Agnolotti del Plin is an incredibly comforting dish – buttery, chewy egg-yolk pasta stuffed with braised beef and chicken, floating in a deeply savory jus. Their lasagna stands tall; layers of spinach, bolognese, and bechamel with a deeply caramelized top all contribute to a memorably great slice. As the tree-lined streets of Fort Greene start to shed their leaves, you’ll find me hanging at this neighborhood gem.
Mariscos El Submarino Greenpoint, Brooklyn
Previously, eating authentic coastal Mexican food in NYC meant hauling your ass to Mariscos El Submarino in Jackson Heights. But with their second location now open in Greenpoint, things are ever-so-slightly more convenient. This should come as excellent news for lovers of pescados y mariscos. Mariscos El Submarino is an extremely casual, walk-in-only restaurant with chaotic service and a rowdy atmosphere – exactly what you want from your local purveyor of micheladas. Those who have experienced the thrill of Mi Compa Chava in Mexico City will find similarities in Submarino, albeit a slightly more PG version. But rest assured, Pacificos are flowing and the vibe is right.
Every table should have a sturdy molcajete on it, which is the vessel for aguachile delivery. It comes packed to the brim with chopped shrimp, thinly sliced fish, octopus, avocado, and a tangy, spicy, acidic sauce. It’s intensely flavorful in a way that Mexican seafood should be. Ordering a few tacos, like the Kraken with octopus and melted chihuahua cheese, helps bring some balance and absorb some of the spice. Mariscos El Submarino plays best on a high-energy weekend afternoon – but I don’t think there’s a bad time to be diving into a bowl of perfect raw seafood.
Best Dishes
Some of the best things I ate (or drank) recently
Classic Double Smashburger — Small Bar Logan Square, Chicago
Chicago might currently be the most burger obsessed city in the country. They take that shit seriously. And it makes sense – it’s home to legendary Au Cheval, a spot that informally started a revolution in the world of griddled beef. The popularity of smashburgers – a crispy, greasy hamburger subcategory – is strong from coast to coast, and Chicago is no exception. While there are several notable smashes around town, the newly revamped Small Bar in Logan Square has one that goes harder than the rest. The neighborhood watering hole is serving up a ridiculously lacy, umami-packed double smash. Served wrapped in aluminum (even if you’re dining in), which gives it just a touch of steamy softness, creating the perfect chewy, amalgamated bite. Without question one of the best smashburgers I’ve ever had.
PHỞ THÌN HÀ NỘI — Di An Di Greenpoint, Brooklyn
Beef Pho. It’s a dish that could warm the coldest of hearts. On a rainy day in New York City, there’s quite literally nothing I’d rather have in front of me. Di An Di, an upscale Vietnamese restaurant in Greenpoint, is home to my favorite bowl of pho in town. Tender brisket, chewy noodles, so much scallion, a runny egg. Suspended in a thin, deeply flavorful, aromatic broth. Housemade hoisin and sriracha are served alongside and should be used liberally. It’s a luxurious, pricier ($22) take on the dish, which might rile pho purists up, but it’s “pick up the bowl to sip every last drop of broth” good – therefore a worthy expense in my book.
Flood’s Hi-Fi
Artists and records for moving and grooving
Maribou State - Otherside (song)
Maribou State falls in an interesting lane for me – I came across the UK-based, genre-bending duo in 2019, a year after their most recent record release, Kingdoms In Colour (2018). I instantly fell for their melancholic, atmospheric sound. 5 years later, though, they’ve hardly released anything new. But that’s about to change! They just released their first single in over two years, “Otherside,” from their newly announced record Hallucinating Love. “Otherside” is super cheerful, and has quite a bit of pace to it. The signature Maribou plucks and rhythmic drums are out in full force. The track leans on Holly Walker’s enchanting vocals – her high notes will lift you into a brighter state of mind.
Jamie xx - In Waves (album)
On the topic of waiting around for new music… Jamie xx… 9 years between albums, absurd. But In Waves is out, and god damn it’s a glorious dance record. It’s such an incredible example of an artist reinventing themselves while honoring their sound. Everything on here sounds distinctly Jamie – the chops, samples, kicks, and grooves. But it delivers a completely different feeling than the moody ballads and novel sonic landscapes from In Colour (2015). Despite some of the allure and mystique being ruined by 6 of 12 songs being released as singles, listening in the context of the full album takes you through what feels like an acid-fueled fever dream. The overarching euphoric sound of this record, paired with the blatantly trippy album aesthetic has the makings for one of the most memorable live tours in recent memory.
Get the full Flood’s Hi-Fi playlist, updated regularly on Spotify
Up Next
Places on my radar
Da Toscano Greenwich Village, New York — my instincts tell me they’re doing modern Italian right
Nubiani Koreatown, New York — for the next time the corporate card is getting thrown around
Frankies 475 Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn — inspired by right on Franklin’s ode to fall dining
In waves is sooo good! Seeing jamie xx in NYC in January and so pumped for it