Cervo's
Cervo's is a seafood restaurant. On the Lower East Side.
Say what you want about Dimes Square. Seriously. Say what you want. Slander, praise — it’s probably at least somewhat true. I’ll say this: it’s home to the best seafood restaurant (that won’t legitimately bankrupt you) in New York City.
I wrote about Cervo’s way back in spring 2023 — one of the first posts on Flood’s. And that was incredibly intentional. There aren’t many restaurants that capture “my kinda place” more than Cervo’s. A place that gets the details right, that keeps it interesting but doesn’t overcomplicate, that makes food taste good.
It’s an experience that goes a few degrees beyond what you’d imagine dining in New York to be like and feel like. When you think New York, you think buzzing, tight spaces. Cervo’s is buzzing harder, in a tighter space than whatever you’re imagining.
The prolific, mustard yellow-tiled facade is a head-turner, standing out even on chaotic Canal Street. Through the tinted front windows are a few prime counter-seats, ideal for an exhilarating people-watching session.
Entering the space is an assault to the senses — you’re hit with the unmistakable smell of fresh seafood, and grill smoke from a humming flattop. A perfectly dim room. A nicely tuned soundsystem. Contagious, convivial energy.
Settling into the corner seats at the bar is swiftly rewarded with the offer of a beverage. To which I always answer “50/50 martini.” I love the 50/50 because it gets me going, but it goes down (very) easy. I can drink one of them and feel real nice. Two of them and feel a little silly. Three would probably be too much. One day I’ll test those limits.
Just because I get the 50/50, doesn’t mean you have to. Cervo’s has a deep selection of Portugese and Spanish wines. Funky ones. Plus “vermouth service” which is a nice nod to the abundance of vermouth-forward hangs you’d have in Lisbon or Barcelona (if you find yourself in the latter, please go check out Morro Fi).
Cervo’s is a seafood restaurant. This is undeniable. You’d be a damn fool not to order a few very fresh, very tasty dishes involving seafood. PEI oysters. Spicy mussels escabeche. Manilla clams in a light and bright vino verde broth.
If you leave without prawns a la plancha I’ll be legitimately upset. I love those prawns. Butterflied real nice, swimming in buttery garlicky oil. I booked a flight to Lisbon because of those prawns. I shit you not.
Sourdough (from Shewolf) is as required as a side order could be. For buttery garlicky oil wiping purposes. Thank me later.
Two of the best dishes on the menu, mainstays, are not seafood.
Lamb Burger — juicy, fatty grass-fed lamb, acidic fennel slaw to cut through the richness, caper mayo for a creamy, briny finish. Served with nicely dressed escarole hearts. Optionally served with anchovies, which I guess technically speaking does make it a seafood item.
Piri-Piri Chicken — you’ll see roughly 10 of these on the grill at a time, and this is for good reason. The most flavorful piece of chicken you’ll encounter. Pile of fires and a lemony aioli. This is like Cervo’s steak frites. It bangs. Fork goes in the sauce, stab some fries, get some chicken. Hell of a bite.
I love fried fish. I do. Fried skate wing is typically an excellent call here. But I’ve had it land overwhelmingly salty at times depending on the seasonality and preparation. The most recent iteration, however, with bursting sungolds, was out of this world. Probably my favorite dish of the night.
The desserts at Cervo’s are solid, but honestly lean forgettable. There are good ones, like flan de queso. There are ehhh ones. Like flourless chocolate cake with cherry & amaro. It’s nowhere near a deal-breaker for me though.
Beyond the food, what consistently impresses me about Cervo’s is its ability to balance being a loud restaurant and an intimate one. It’s incredible really. How can a place be so stimulating, yet allow you to feel so close to the person next to you? Probably because you’re literally nestled shoulder-to-shoulder with the person next to you.
Cervo’s is quintessential New York City dining. It’s a restaurant that could only exist (and thrive) in a few small corners of this country. Omaha, Nebraska just wouldn’t understand prawns a la plancha. And that’s ok. Because Cervo’s is a seafood restaurant on the Lower East Side.
This was a restaurant write-up from Mr. Flood’s Party. Subscribe for free and get Flood’s delivered every week.